HOW TO CREATE A RAW HEM
DIYS /
September 2024
Feeling creative and want to add a little extra flair to your look? We’ve teamed up with Gage Czuppa, a Levi’s® tailor based in Newport Beach, CA, who has a knack for turning old jeans into something fresh and unexpected.
MEET Gage Czuppa
Gage first learned to sew at 17, altering thrifted Levi’s® to get the perfect fit. Now, with a background in fashion focused on upcycling, he’s here to show you how to add a raw-cut hem to your favorite jeans—a simple DIY using common household items.
A raw hem gives an effortless, undone look that adds an edge to any outfit. It may seem like a small detail, but that little fray speaks volumes about you. And did we mention it’s versatile? Wear your raw-hem jeans with a blazer for a pulled-together look, or pair them with a simple t-shirt for a laid-back weekend vibe. We promise you the possibilities are endless.
ADDING A RAW HEM
Adding a raw hem is also a great way to breathe new life into an old pair of jeans that might be sitting at the back of your closet. If you’re worried about cutting your jeans, start with an older pair or some you don’t wear often to practice your technique. But don’t worry—it’s a super beginner-friendly craft. Here’s how to get started.
WHAT YOU’LL NEED:
Jeans: We recommend denim that’s 99% cotton. (Stretchy jeans don’t fray well.)
Chalk: This will help you mark where you want to cut.
Scissors: The sharper, the better! These are essential for a clean cut.
Needle and thread: To secure the hem and prevent excessive fraying.
Ruler: For exact measurements.
Tape measure: To make sure all your marks and cuts are accurate.
STEP 1: ROLL THE CUFF
First things first, put on the jeans you’ve picked to DIY and stand in front of a mirror. Roll the cuffs to where you want your new hem to fall, ensuring the jeans sit at the correct waist point and you’re standing up straight. This step is crucial to avoid ending up with hems that are too short or uneven. Use chalk to mark the spot while wearing the jeans; this will help you get the length just right.
A good tip is to mark the line a bit longer than you think you’ll need—you can always trim more if necessary, but you can’t add fabric back once it’s cut. For added precision, pin the cuffs in place with safety pins to ensure they stay exactly where you want them.
STEP 2: MEASURE
Once your cuffs are rolled and pinned, measure the length of the cuffs as well as the inseams using a tape measure or ruler. Make sure both inseams are the same length to avoid uneven hems. This step is key to getting a symmetrical, professional-looking finish.
STEP 3: LINE IT UP
With your measurements in hand, draw a horizontal line across each leg using a ruler or any straight edge. This will be your cutting guide. Draw a second line a quarter of an inch below the first one to allow room for fraying—the frayed edges will naturally extend over time. Before marking, ensure the bottoms of the legs are flat or ironed out, especially if the jeans are vintage or have been worn.
Repeat the same process on the other leg, making sure your measurements and lines are consistent.
STEP 4: CUT
Now it’s time to cut. Using a strong pair of scissors—preferably industrial or tailor shears—carefully cut along the line you marked. Avoid using small or dull scissors, as they won’t give you a clean cut. Once you’ve finished cutting, remove any remaining chalk marks with an iron or steamer.
STEP 5: FRAY
To give your jeans that perfect frayed look, you have a couple of options. For a natural, longer fray, beat the cut edges of the jeans against a hard surface. If you prefer a more controlled fray, use the sharp edge of a knife or a pair of scissors to gently distress the fabric. Remember, the fraying will continue and evolve as you wash and wear your jeans, so keep that in mind when deciding how much to fray.
STEP 6: TACKING
To keep the frayed edges from unraveling too much, you can tack the hem using a thread and needle or a sewing machine. This will help maintain the look while ensuring your jeans don’t fray beyond your desired point.
TIME TO STYLE!
See how easy that was? Now, it’s time to enjoy your creation! Pair your jeans with your favorite Levi’s® Trucker Jacket, and wait for the compliments to start rolling in.
BONUS STEP: TAKE IT TO A LEVI’S® TAILOR SHOP
If DIY isn’t your thing, or you want a professional touch, visit your local Levi’s® Tailor Shop. Our talented tailors will help you achieve your denim dreams. Whether you’re looking to add a raw hem, layer on some embroidery or just need a repair, we can make it happen. (Trust us, we’re experts!)
EVEN MORE TIPS FOR THE PERFECT RAW HEM:
Pre-wash your jeans: Washing your jeans before you cut them can help prevent extra shrinking after you’ve made the cut.
Use a contrasting color thread: If you want to add a bit of flair to your hem, you might want to consider using a thread color that contrasts with your jeans. This small detail creates a more personalized touch to your project.
Experiment with different distressing techniques: Try using a cheese grater, sandpaper or even a wire brush to achieve different levels of fraying and distressing. Let your imagination run free!
Don’t be afraid to go bold: If you’re feeling adventurous, maybe try personalizing your denim even more by adding patches, embroidery or fabric paint. The raw hem is just the beginning of the creative possibilities.
CARING FOR YOUR RAW-HEM JEANS
So you’re in love with your new creation and want to know the best way to take care of your jeans so they can last? Here are some of our favorite care tips.
Don’t wash them too much: To maintain the raw hem look, wash your jeans as little as possible. Spot clean instead.
Use a gentle cycle: When you do wash your jeans, we recommend using a gentle cycle and cold water to prevent the hem from fraying too much.
Don’t use a dryer: Air drying is best for raw-hem jeans. The heat from your dryer can cause the hem to fray excessively and lose its shape.
Reinforce as needed: Over time, you might need to reinforce the stitches you added to the outseam. This will help maintain the hem’s integrity and prevent unwanted unraveling.
So why not give it a try? Follow these steps, take your time and have fun with the process. And don’t forget—if you prefer a professional touch, the Levi’s® Tailor Shop is always here to help you achieve the look you want. Good luck!