On May 20th, 1873, Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis secured a patent (No. 139,121) for “an Improvement in Fastening Pocket Openings.” The West Coast at that time was a loose patchwork of farms, ranches, railroads and gold mines. Jacob Davis—a tailor from Reno, Nevada—had the idea of placing rivets on work pants at points of strain, and joined forces with his denim supplier Levi Strauss in San Francisco. The riveted blue jean was born. Soon, Levi’s® became the clothing of choice for the rugged, hodgepodge band of workers, outcasts, entrepreneurs and outlaws building America’s future. For Spring/Summer 2023, in celebration of the 150th year anniversary of this patent, we pay tribute to their innovation and collaboration.

While Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis introduced the blue jean in 1873, 1890 was the first year the 501® lot number was adopted. Levi Strauss & Co.’s patent for riveted clothing expired that same year, meaning that other companies could now also use rivets on clothing. To answer the coming competition, LS&Co. printed the inside pocket bag with information about the strength and originality of the XX overalls. 1890 was the year that the 501® number was first assigned to the famous pants—likely done because the company no longer had an exclusive patent, and also because it had a good-sized line of clothing by this time. It was easier for retailers to order their products by number rather than by a simple description, as had been done in the past. Any product made with the highest quality materials was given a lot number beginning with 5: 501® for the overall, 506 for the jacket, etc. Made with XX 9oz denim, these 1890 501® jeans are at the head of the class.

• An archival reproduction of 1890 501® jeans
• 1890 was the first year the 501® lot number was adopted
• One back pocket with external rivets
• Super comfortable, roomier fit
• Designed with 9oz Cone Mills white oak loomstate selvedge denim
• Features our first-ever iconic Two Horse leather patch