Fashion house NO SESSO — whose name stands for "no sex/no gender" in Italian — was launched in 2015 by Pia Davis & Autumn Randolph to challenge the conventions of fashion, art, culture and design. Since then, it’s taken the fashion world by storm, making history as the first brand helmed by a trans woman to present at New York Fashion Week.
The spirit of transformation and challenging norms at the core of NO SESSO is also what drove our collaboration. It features 4 unique styles chock full of details that allow you to zip and lace them up in endless ways. We sat down with Pia & Autumn, who co-designed the collection to hear more about the design process, the inspirations behind the pieces, and straight off the runway tips on how to wear them.
Can you walk us through your design process for LEVI’S® X NO SESSO?
The idea of reimagining denim with such a classic brand was so thrilling but also overwhelming in deciding which ideas to put forth. We ended up using traditional No Sesso influences, such as vintage lingerie -- like corsets and garters -- alongside streetwear to approach design. We created pieces that were interchangeable and elevated. For the first look, we used garter detail stitching for the corset jacket and pants that convert into shorts. The jacket can be worn at the length of a dress or zipped off to be the length of a classic Levi’s® Trucker Jacket. The romanticism that No Sesso loves as a brand really shined through in these two pieces and the details of the stitching and shapes. In the second look, we placed zippers on a Levi’s® Trucker Jacket to mimick the boning lines of a corset. The zippers tighten the jacket to make a cinched waist moment or can be unzipped for a looser fit. The matching pants to this jacket follow the same details. The denim creates a different shape and look depending on which zipper you play with.
This collection is made up of 4 styles, each featuring a unique NO SESSO take on a Levi’s® silhouette. In your own words, what makes each style in this collection special?
What makes each style special, alongside all of the design details and the convertible features, is that you can dress up or downplay these pieces. They are statement pieces that can also blend in. Denim is a protective and central part of one's wardrobe, so making it wearable for a special event or evening, and seeing it look so luxe was very gratifying. The designs are dreamy & thoughtful, and like Levi’s - still very accommodating and versatile.
NO SESSO was created with a mission to make nonconformity as beautiful and inclusive as it can possibly be. What can you say about denim, and it being gender neutral in nature?
As a brand, we really wanted to shift the narrative that clothes are gendered. We are both non-conforming people in different ways and express that through our fashion sense & design. Denim is most definitely gender inclusive by nature so it really set the stage for an exciting collaboration that we didn’t expect. We really just wanted to highlight the beauty and freedom in expression of self through fashion. No need to burn down barriers that you never succumbed to, just shine in confidence and have fun.
What inspirations did you look to when designing LEVI’S® X NO SESSO?
Our influences were our usual sources of inspiration. We love lingerie and mixing that with streetwear, evening wear, or casual outfitting. Feeling casual and comfortable while looking exquisite. We are a part of a generation that views streetwear as personal style and not just “urban” clothing worn during the day. These pieces really encompass the elegance of personal style and design.
Zippers and laces allow the pieces in this collection to transform. What can you say about all of the different ways a person can style this collection out?
One of our goals was to integrate convertible designs. Each piece can be transformed into a new look. The zippers can change the fit from a corset jacket to a regular trucker fit. For the jeans, the open zippers create a wider leg feel and are actually clutch for weight gain as well! The laced corset jacket can be worn oversized, function as a dress, or can also be shortened for a more traditional look. You can even remove the lacing as well. The denim pants with garter details can be turned into shorts or unzipped for knee holes or whatever custom feel you might want.
Community is at the heart of NO SESSO. Tell us about the campaign shoot and being able to showcase the collection on your friends, including on the runway recently at New York Fashion Week!
Community is at the heart of No Sesso so it’s extremely special to let the blueprint and commitment of working with our peers prevail each season. We work with artists and tastemakers who uphold the expression of our brand and whose work pours into us. It’s an exchange. It’s like being in a family, sharing the same last name and always meeting up for Sunday dinner. We take Sunday dinner to fashion week. We created a campaign consisting our original No Sesso models - Jerrod La Rue, Mizan Bright, and Ebonee Davis. We wanted to create classic images that propped us up as the heartbeats of the brand. To wear the garments for the first time was surreal and we definitely felt luxe. To showcase them at New York Fashion Week and fit the pieces on different bodies was just a big beautiful moment - a new level of respect for ourselves and all of the work we’ve been doing, as well as excitement for what’s to come.