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[On the Scene](https://www.levi.com/DK/da_DK/blog/category/on-the-scene) - [Campaigns and Collaborations](https://www.levi.com/DK/da_DK/blog/category/campaigns-and-collaborations) - [Style](https://www.levi.com/DK/da_DK/blog/category/styled-by-levis) - [Sustainability](https://www.levi.com/DK/da_DK/blog/category/sustainability) - [DIYS](https://www.levi.com/DK/da_DK/blog/category/make-it-yours) - [Community](https://www.levi.com/DK/da_DK/blog/category/community) [See All Categories](https://www.levi.com) # EN MEDRIVENDE HISTORIE ### [__On the Scene__](https://www.levi.com/DK/da_DK/blog/category/on-the-scene) /  januar 2023 Share ![-](https://lscoglobal.scene7.com/is/image/lscoglobal/H1_23_LVC_BRTH_BL_JN_BLG_HDR_M?fmt=jpeg&qlt=70&resMode=sharp2&fit=crop%2C1&op_usm=0.6%2C0.6%2C8&wid=2000&hei=2500)![-](https://lscoglobal.scene7.com/is/image/lscoglobal/H1_23_LVC_BRTH_BL_JN_BLG_HDR_D?fmt=jpeg&qlt=70&resMode=sharp2&fit=crop%2C1&op_usm=0.6%2C0.6%2C8&wid=2000&hei=1125) Vores nye kollektion, Birth of the Blue Jean, fejrer 150-året for det legendariske patent opnået af Levi Strauss & Co. og skrædder Jacob Davis. Vi har sat os ned med Paul O'Neill, designdirektør for Levi's® Vintage Clothing, for at få historien. Tro os, den er medrivende. ### INSPIRATIONEN | | |------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------| | I slutningen af 1800-tallet var arbejdet på gårde, ranches, jernbaner og guldminer i det amerikanske vesten tungt, støvet, snavset og svedigt. Mænd bar bukser, der ofte gik op ved lommerne og andre belastningspunkter – i dag kendt som det frygtede “blowout.” | | Jacob William Davis, kendt som “J.W.” – en skrædder og kommende opfinder fra Riga, Letland, der arbejdede i Reno, Nevada og havde specialiseret sig i fremstilling af telte og vognovertræk – havde fået en ide om at anbringe nitter på arbejdsbukser på disse belastningspunkter (ja, selv skridtet). Han skrev et brev til sin stofleverandør Levi Strauss i San Francisco, hvor han bestilte forsyninger og foreslog et patentpartnerskab. | | Den 20. maj 1873 sikrede Jacob Davis og Levi Strauss & Co. sig et amerikansk patent nr. 139.121: for “en forbedring i fastgørelse af lommeåbninger” – og de blå jeans med nitter blev født. Eftersom at de nu nærmest ikke kunne ødelægges, blev Levi's® det foretrukne valg af tøj for den robuste, sammensatte gruppe af arbejdere, udstødte, iværksættere og fredløse, der byggede USAs fremtid. | | I samarbejde med Levi Strauss var det endelig lykkedes Jacob Davis at opfinde noget, verden kunne bruge. Det var et legendarisk samarbejde, og Davis fortsatte som fabrikschef hos Levi Strauss & Co. resten af sine leveår. | ![-](https://lscoglobal.scene7.com/is/image/lscoglobal/23_H1_LVC_BRTH_BL_JN_BLG_4?fmt=jpeg&qlt=70&resMode=sharp2&fit=crop%2C1&op_usm=0.6%2C0.6%2C8&wid=1680&hei=2100) ## I MIN FORSKNING AF DENNE KOLLEKTION LÆRTE JEG, AT LEVI STRAUSS BAR STRÅHATTE OG HAVDE EN GOD SANS FOR HUMOR. – PAUL O’NEILL, DESIGNDIREKTØR FOR LEVI'S® VINTAGE CLOTHING | | |--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------| | Levi Strauss var i øvrigt oprindeligt fra en by i den nordlige ende af Bayern kaldet Buttenheim (gammeltysk for “endedel” + “hjem”), skæbnesvangert måske for manden, hvis navn ville blive synonymt med verdens mest ikoniske syn bagfra. | ![-](https://lscoglobal.scene7.com/is/image/lscoglobal/23_H1_LVC_BRTH_BL_JN_BLG_2?fmt=jpeg&qlt=70&resMode=sharp2&fit=crop%2C1&op_usm=0.6%2C0.6%2C8&wid=1680&hei=2100) ### TØJET "Denne kollektion indeholder reproduktioner, sting for sting, af nogle af de tidligste beklædningsgenstande fra Levi's® arkiverne nogensinde, inklusive 1870'ernes Duck Closed Front Jumper og 1870'ernes Duck Waist Overalls. Tidligere var vores ældste, bekræftede lædermærke fra efter marts 1875 og bar teksten “genpatenteret”. Vi havde altid vidst, at der var et tidligere mærke, men havde aldrig været i stand til at identificere den fulde tekst. Da vi begyndte at studere dette par, kunne vi se, at det var et tidligere mærke, fordi det ikke havde genpatentteksten på sig, men vi kunne heller ikke læse alt på det. “Tracey Panek, vores historiker, tog en tur til Smithsonian, hvor de har et par Levi's® lærredsbukser i bomuld, som vi donerede i 1960'erne, og hun fotograferede mærket. Så nu havde vi Smithsonian-mærket, mærket efter 1875 og dette mærke. Da vi satte de tre sammen, kunne vi endelig dechifrere alle oplysningerne på det ældre mærke og bekræfte, at der ikke var nogen genpatenttekst, hvilket bringer os til den konklusion, at disse beklædningsgenstande er fra før 1875. I mine 14 års forskning af tøj fra Levi's® var dette en kæmpe opdagelse. For første gang nogensinde kunne vi datere noget til før 1875 med klare beviser. Det er super fedt, og det gør mig virkelig begejstret for disse stykker tøj.” - [SHOP NU](https://www.levi.com/DK/da_DK/c/levi_men_collections_lvc) ![-](https://lscoecomm.scene7.com/is/image/lscoecomm/23_H1_LVC_BRTH_BL_JN_BLG_3-2?fmt=jpeg&qlt=70&resMode=sharp2&fit=crop%2C1&op_usm=0.6%2C0.6%2C8&wid=1680&hei=2100) ## DETTE PAR OVERALLS HAR INTET MÆRKE PÅ NITTERNE ELLER KNAPPER OG INGEN BUE. DET ER BESTEMT ET AF DE ÆLDSTE I VORES ARKIV. – PAUL O’NEILL, DESIGNDIREKTØR FOR LEVI'S® VINTAGE CLOTHING ### HVAD ER NU DET? Forskellen mellem lærred og denim  “Lærred er en vævning én efter én – én over, én under, én over – så når man ser på den, ser man disse perfekte, små firkanter. Denim er en tre-til-en-vævning – over tre, under én, over tre osv. Dette forskydes så i næste række og sådan får du den diagonale twill, som giver den en anden karakter end lærredet. Kædetråden er indigo, og skudtråden er naturlig, så når du ruller dine jeans op, får du en ecru manchet.” ![-](https://lscoecomm.scene7.com/is/image/lscoecomm/23_H1_LVC_BRTH_BL_JN_BLG_4-1?fmt=jpeg&qlt=70&resMode=sharp2&fit=crop%2C1&op_usm=0.6%2C0.6%2C8&wid=1680&hei=2100) - [SHOP NU](https://www.levi.com/DK/da_DK/c/levi_men_collections_lvc) Enjoy benefits like free shipping, exclusive access, birthday rewards and more. 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