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# EEN FASCINEREND VERHAAL
### [__Op locatie__](https://www.levi.com/BE/nl_BE/blog/category/on-the-scene) / januari 2023
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Onze nieuwe collectie, Birth of the Blue Jean, viert de 150e verjaardag van het legendarische patent dat Levi Strauss & Co. en kleermaker Jacob Davis kregen. Wij spraken met Paul O'Neill, ontwerpdirecteur van Levi's® Vintage Clothing, om het verhaal te horen. Geloof ons, het is fascinerend.
### DE INSPIRATIE
| |
|------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Tegen het eind van de 19e eeuw was het werk op de boerderijen, ranches, spoorwegen en in goudmijnen in het Amerikaanse westen zwaar, stoffig, smerig en zweterig. Mannen droegen broeken die vaak scheurden bij de zakken en andere spanningspunten - tegenwoordig bekend als de gevreesde "blowout". |
| Jacob William Davis, bekend als "J.W," - een kleermaker en toekomstige uitvinder uit Riga, Letland die in Reno, Nevada werkte en gespecialiseerd was in het maken van tenten en huifkarren - had het idee om klinknagels op werkbroeken aan te brengen op deze spanningspunten (ja, zelfs in het kruis). Hij schreef een brief aan zijn stoffenleverancier Levi Strauss in San Francisco, bestelde voorraden en stelde een octrooipartnerschap voor. |
| Op 20 mei 1873 kregen Jacob Davis en Levi Strauss & Co. een Amerikaans patent - nr. 139.121: voor "een verbetering in het sluiten van zakopeningen" - en de geklonken blauwe spijkerbroek was geboren. Dankzij de nieuwe bijna onverwoestbaarheid werd Levi's® de kleding bij uitstek voor de ruige, samengestelde groep arbeiders, verschoppelingen, ondernemers en bandieten die aan de toekomst van Amerika bouwden. |
| In samenwerking met Levi Strauss was Jacob Davis er eindelijk in geslaagd iets uit te vinden dat de wereld kon gebruiken. Het was een legendarische samenwerking en Davis bleef de rest van zijn leven fabrieksdirecteur bij Levi Strauss & Co. |
| |
## TIJDENS MIJN ONDERZOEK VOOR DEZE COLLECTIE KWAM IK TE WETEN DAT LEVI STRAUSS STROOIEN HOEDEN DROEG EN EEN GOED GEVOEL VOOR HUMOR HAD.
– PAUL O’NEILL, DESIGN DIRECTOR, LEVI’S® VINTAGE CLOTHING
| |
|--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Levi Strauss kwam trouwens oorspronkelijk uit een stadje aan de noordelijke kant van Beieren dat Buttenheim heette (Oud-Duits voor "einddeel" + "thuis"), wellicht een noodlot voor de man wiens naam synoniem zou worden met 's werelds meest iconische achteraanzicht. |
### DE KLEREN
"Deze collectie bevat steek-voor-steek reproducties van enkele van de vroegste kledingstukken in Levi's® archieven ooit, waaronder de Duck Closed Front Jumper uit 1870 en de Duck Waist Overalls uit 1870. Hiervóór was onze oudste bevestigde lederen patch van na maart 1875 en had de tekst "re-patent". Wij hebben altijd geweten dat er een eerdere patch was, maar hebben nooit de volledige tekst erop kunnen achterhalen. Toen wij deze twee kledingstukken begonnen te bestuderen, konden wij zien dat het een vroegere patch was, omdat de octrooi tekst er niet op stond, maar wij konden ook niet alles erop lezen.
"Tracey Panek, onze historica, ging naar het Smithsonian, waar ze een paar Levi's® katoenen duck pants hebben die wij in de jaren zestig hebben gedoneerd, en ze fotografeerde de patch. Nu hadden we dus de Smithsonian-patch, de patch van na 1875 en deze patch. Toen we de drie samenvoegden, konden we eindelijk alle informatie op de oudere patch volledig ontcijferen en bevestigen dat er geen octrooi tekst was, wat ons tot de conclusie brengt dat deze kledingstukken van vóór 1875 zijn. In mijn 14 jaar onderzoek naar Levi's®-stukken was dit een enorme ontdekking. Voor het eerst konden we iets dateren van vóór 1875 met duidelijke bewijzen. Dat is echt gaaf, en het maakt me erg enthousiast over deze stukken."
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## DEZE OVERALL HEEFT GEEN MERK OP DE KLINKNAGELS OF KNOPEN, EN GEEN BOOG. HET IS ZEKER EEN VAN DE OUDSTE STUKKEN IN ONS ARCHIEF.
– PAUL O’NEILL, DESIGN DIRECTOR, LEVI’S® VINTAGE CLOTHING
### WHAT THE DUCK?
Het verschil tussen eend en denim
"Duck is een doek, dat één voor één wordt geweven - één over, één onder, één over - dus als je ernaar kijkt, zie je die perfecte vierkantjes. Denim is een drie-bij-één weving - over drie, onder één, over drie, enz. Dit wordt in de volgende rij gecompenseerd en zo krijg je de diagonale keperbinding, die het een ander karakter geeft dan het doek. De scheringdraad is indigo en de inslagdraad is naturel, dus als je je jeans oprolt, krijg je een ecru boord."
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